La Luna 2013

An absolute gamechanger, a vin de soif from a “heady” region — the village of Banyuls, famous for its fortified Grenache-based dessert wines of meditation — is here repurposed with a greater solar influence, drawing the wine’s terroir up and out. If schist could float, this is it. Unmistakable aromas draw you in to taste a sap-like quality that’s as succulent as can be, the Grenache is not over-done or too “varietal,” with a tiny bit of Carignan in there for good measure. The 13.5% alcohol, vivid palette, a breezy succulence on the palate, and as enduring as it should be without any extra baggage — just the right amount of time in the sun.

If we had to make hydra-headed comparisons, this wine reminds us of the clarity of Yannick Pelletier’s Saint Chinians but with the generous and then snappy quality of some of the best sans soufre Anjou rogues out there. As his acreage and yields are so low, you can imagine how small his production is.