Producer Profile: On the Adriatic Coast of eastern Italy, nestled in the Vomano River valley that eventually spills into the Adriatic, four friends – none of whom were originally winegrowers – came together to begin one of the most exciting natural wine projects in eastern Italy around 2015. The braintrust behind Cantina Indigeno consists of Alfredo Giugno, Nicola Reginaldo, Fabio Petrella, and Loreto Lamolinara, each with their own personal history with, & passion for, all things fermentation. Prior to founding this wine operation – like the Puglian producer from wine share a few months back, “Masseria La Cattiva” – Alfredo Giugno and Loreto Lamolinara were brewers, having created their micro-brewery “La Casa di Cura (The Sanitorium)” in 2013. The original focus on the small transformation (fermentation) from farmed product to beverage comes through in these wines too: there is a yeasty, pleasant mouthfeel that adds depth and structure to what are otherwise awesomely high-energy, bright and sharp wines. And so the wines become their own kind of style – several years on, they’ve only gotten better and better, with a wider focus and improved-all-the-time organic viticultural techniques among the vines. They are flag-bearers – along with Lammidia and Controvento to name a few – for the natural wine revolution that is changing and broadening the concept of what can be fine (see: fun and honest) Abruzzese wines, far beyond the Cerasuolos or Montepulciano vinos da tavola of yesteryear.
Vinification: 100% Trebbiano. Grapes are hand-harvested and fermented using wild yeasts without temperature control, and on the skins for 8 days. The fermented juice is then racked into fiberglass, where it rests on the lees for 8 months. Bottled unfined, unfiltered with no SO2.
Tasting: Macerated trebbiano that drinks like a summer breeze. Crisp, refreshing, and striking a lovely balance between savory, tart and tropical fruitiness. Brings to mind cold honeydew spritzed with lemon juice and sprinkled with mint, with a subtle oceanic brininess that floats beneath the surface. Served cold.