Lake Neusiedl, a 20-mile long pool of freshwater never deeper than a meter, is the central topographical feature of Burgenland where Claus Preisinger has been making wines from biodynamically cultivated vines for nearly two decades, increasing output and quality with seemingly every vintage. This is an area comparable to Bordeaux’s Médoc, with its mild Pannonian climate, and the Leitha Hills not far from marshland. Historically, some of Austria’s greatest reds and sweet wines have been made here. Having attended a viticultural high school (!), Claus was well-placed to start working his father’s holdings in Gols, where the winery is based (in a supremely modern-outfitted building). With only 3 hectares at first, Claus quickly converted the vines to organics and, while expanding the land under vine to nearly 17 hectares over the next decade and a half, converted the farm to one that is practicing biodynamic vine cultivation. The idea behind the wines is one that seeks both purity and elegance but never at the cost of deadening a wine’s character/aesthetic. In this way, the wines have slowly made their way to fully zero/zero barring any vintage oddities that may call for a tiny dose of SO2 at bottling to ensure stabilization. The range he produces is a thrilling mix of vin de soif & age-worthy reds, the calling card of Neusiedl’s own wine-history.

100% Zweigelt. Fermented in stainless steel with wild yeasts. Unfined, unfiltered, no SO2. Juicy, light-bodied and punchy, with red cherries and crunchy, tart blue fruits on the palate. Serve chilled.