Combrillac, "Troc" 2021

Florent Girou & Thien Uyen Do are the tandem vigneron.ne team behind Château Combrillac, a thrilling new (only about 4 vintages or so) project above the city of Bergerac in France's Southwest, an ancient area of rolling hills of forests known more specifically as the Dordogne, their vines draping a promontory from which you can peer out over the Dordogne Valley and observe the ruinous evidence of medieval red stone castles studding hilltops seemingly far as the eye can see. Here, over 25 hectares though only 12 are under vine, the duo operate in a thrillingly polycultural manner. The emphasis truly seems to be on a deep commitment to biodiversity. Their importer Super Glou attests to as much: "Uyen and Florent, tandem vigneron.ne, work tirelessly to preserve the ecosystem of which their grapes are only a part: the crown of trees surrounding the whole property, the groves of oak and acacia, the natural meadows which weave between each parcel, the hops and cereals they cultivate, as well as the aromatic and medicinal plants under their care: holy basil, chamomile, comfrey, tansy and Persian clover." Yet-another development of their interest in non-modern agriculture that harkens back to a super-sustainable way of farming from centuries' past is a new project spread over 1.5 hectares -- having co-planted 4,000 trees in a hectare and a half with grapevines, they are training their 3760 individual vines in this 'parcel' to each climb up their own tree, in the ancient grape-growing system known as vite maritata. Unheard of stuff! If you're wondering what could come from such rigor & conceptual ambition other than delicious wine, you'd be right; the wines are, of course, beautiful and bespeak an aspect caught somewhere between the broader, more 'southern' feeling elements of their climate & the yet-fresh brightness of their hands-off approach in the cellar, which emphasizes shorter macerations & the preservation of each variety's aromatic profile.

Bergerac, France. A black and blue-fruited Cabernet Franc, Cabernet-Sauvignon and Merlot, partially destemmed and given a short maceration. Dermented with wild yeast in stainless steel. Bottled unfined, unfiltered with a touch of SO2. Brooding and herbaceous, but with enough fresh acidity to put a chill on it.