Ulli, the quintessential bohemian, presides over a 19th-century inn atop a Mosel mountain – not your typical lodging, as reservations are granted only to friends. Yet, this unconventional haven buzzes with an eclectic mix: pensive eccentrics, renowned musicians, artists, and wanderers from Berlin to Sicily, all drawn by a shared love for Stein wine and the enigmatic Ulli. Steering clear of a prescribed winemaking "style," Ulli's approach is refreshingly unburdened by projections; instead, it's an ode to vineyards that speak to him. Cultivating commercially obscure plots, Ulli embraces the challenging, the unknown, and, above all, what he genuinely loves. At Stein, dry wines take center stage, prioritizing lightness and zest over an abundance of fruit, favoring simplicity done well over chaotic complexity. It's a vinicultural dance where the absurd meets the sublime, orchestrated by a vintner deeply attuned to the rhythm of his cherished land.