Charles Dufour, “Coteaux Vin de Comptoir L. 82-21” NV

In Champagne, still wines are usually a means to an end—a stepping stone to bubbles. But Charles Dufour, ever the rule-breaker, lets one stand entirely on its own. This is not just a white wine; it’s a living archive, a solera bottling (assemblage perpétuel) that holds within it over a decade of vintages, shifting and evolving with each new addition.

Certified organic and made up of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Blanc in unmeasured, ever-changing proportions, the solera was started in 2010 and has been aged exclusively in barrel. But what makes this truly singular is Dufour’s decision to incorporate old Champagnes from his father’s cellar (remise en cercle), weaving in wines from 1988, 1989, 1990, and 1997. The result is something unlike anything else in Champagne—layered, textured, and steeped in history, a still wine with the DNA of Champagne running through its veins.