Vater & Sohn, Müller-Thurgau Trocken (NV)

A story of a “father and son” – this is the fairly clear translation of the offshoot project between Michael Voelker of 2Naturkinder and his father, Bernhard Voelker. Launched in 2016, this is a line of wines designed to make two ends meet, that is, to create a collaborative wine that reflects where the generations both fused and unfused. Bernhard Voelker had made wine for most of his life here in Kitzingen, the heart of Franconian winemaking country, under appellation standards (serving on the local Appellation Certification Board) and as such the wines wouldn’t necessarily be categorized as ‘natural.’ Getting his feet wet in wine with his partner Melanie Drese around 2010, Michael Voelker immediately knew they wanted to make natural rather than conventional wine – but such a bold plan could hardly be hatched without some doubts. After what they described as ‘maybe sheer luck or maybe [just] a good vintage’, their inaugural bottlings in 2013 under what then had been their ‘natural’  side project – 2 Naturkinder – exploded in popularity in conjunction with that most elusive of marketing boons: international-name-and-label-recognition. Theirs are the bottles with the upside-down bats. In any case, Michael and his father wanted to work together and this line of wines is their collaboration, a beautiful testament to a loving relationship between father and son. As of January 1 2020, Michael and Melanie had taken over the reigns at Weingut Voelker (Eveline and Bernhard having decided to take their well-earned retirement).  The whole estate now is under the 2Naturkinder name though this Vater & Sohn line of bottles still reflects a collaborative farming and viticultural effort between Bernhard and Michael.

Vinification: 100% Muller-Thurgau purchased from two organic vineyard sites near 2NaturKindr’s own vines. Shell-limestone soils. The grapes were hand-picked, foot-stomped, and fermented using native yeasts in stainless steel. A light, gross-filtration takes place for clarity, but otherwise it is unfiltered and unfined. A touch of SO2 is added at bottling. 

Tasting: A light, aromatic Muller-Thurgau from the winemakers at 2NaturKindr (plus his father!). Floral and citrusy on the nose. Slightly savory and spicy on the palate but with ample fruit: Lychee, peach, and lemon zest. A fresh white to serve as an aperitif or with a simple pasta dish.