Christoph Heiss, "Kamptal Hotrot" 2021

Christoph Heiss has taken over his family’s vines. Which makes it sound, actually, contentious; an unfortunate trick of phrasing. The 12 hectares of holdings in the Eastern Kamptal (of, generally, Northern Austria)  have been nobly bequeathed to him, which says a lot about the potential seen in this barely-30-something-rising-star. Having garnered an unusually large & impressive CV before turning the age of 28, apprenticing at estates the world over (some natural, some not), Heiss was well-placed to farm & vinify these vines which have, since 2013, been organically cultivated. Having moved the general farmland in such a direction, the wines themselves have also come to reflect the ethos of low-intervention; in particular, his side-project “Malinga” is where he really lets himself experiment and see just how wild the wines can get while retaining their finesse & beauty, their put-together-ness. These wines are completely sans-soufre. It’s an exciting endeavor from a bright-eyed, enthusiastic expert in the making… don’t be surprised if his are wines you’d just as likely see chucked back in a park’s summery afternoon as contemplated over a pre-fixe meal at a Michelin-starred outfit your friend’s parents have promised they’d treat you to.

A blend of St. Laurent, Rotburger, and Müller Thurgau from 40-year-old vines grown in the Kamptal region of Austria. Foot crushed in whole clusters and fermented using wild yeasts in stainless steel, followed by aging on the fine lees for 5 months. Unfined, unfiltered, no SO2. A wonderfully balanced combo of flavors: ripe blackberries, savory tomato juice, sweet & tart mango flesh, and flashes of earthy Garrigue. Serve chilled.