Charles Dufour, “Mistelle Assemblage Perpetuel” NV

Ratafia is often the afterthought of Champagne—a sweet, boozy byproduct of necessity. But in the hands of Charles Dufour, it’s something else entirely: a whisper rather than a shout, a lighter, finer, almost ethereal take on the old-school fortified wine of the region.

Sourced entirely from Pinot Noir in a vineyard farmed by his mother, Françoise Martinot, this ratafia is built on the final 20% of the press—taille—the softer, juicier cut. Half of this particular release comes from 2020, blended at a precise 2:1 ratio of fresh must to marc, then left outdoors for a year to evolve under the elements. The other half? A perpetual reserve, spanning 2015 to 2019, adding layers of memory and depth. No sulfur, no filtration, nothing but time and patience.

Only 1,000 bottles exist, the rest folded back into the ever-growing solera. The result is something uniquely Dufour: savory, feather-light, only gently sweet, with Champagne’s telltale acidity keeping everything fresh. A Blanc de Noirs in spirit—just one that took a different path.