Anima Mundi, “Cami del Xops” 2019

What does a Platonic Dialogue have to do with Macabeu? Xarel-lo? For Anima Mundi the answer is in its asking. From Plato’s dialogue with Timaeus, the Latin term ‘Anima Mundi’ was laid bare:

“…Therefore, we may consequently state that: this world is indeed a living being endowed with a soul and intelligence…a single living entity containing all other living entities, which by their nature are all related” (Plato, Timaeus, 29/30).

“World-Soul” is a kind of rough translation of the concept. Clearly this is fertile ground from which to name a biodynamic wine operation. Truly, the wines of Anima Mundi are a free-space where holistic viticulture deigns to the maximal suggestion of Plato’s concept. Founded by Agusti Torello Roca in northeast Spain’s Penedés, he is a grower of some natural sparkling wine renown due to his family’s other winery AT Roca. Here, however, the ambitious winemaker goes into specialized territory, focusing on hyper low-yields and converting what is otherwise the practicing organic endeavor of AT Roca into a tiny full-on biodynamic project. And so, Anima Mundi is the next, further iteration away from traditional, bulk cava. It is the frontier, the “Soul of The World;” it is something pure that’s bubbling in Catalonia. 

Vinification: A blend of Macaebu and Xarel-lo hand-harvested from vines at two adjoining parcels grown in clay-calcareous soils. The grapes undergo spontaneous fermentation in a combination of stainless-steel tank and old 225L French oak barrel. Once the sugar content (or, brix) reaches 20g per liter, the fermenting juice is bottled unfined, unfiltered, with no additional SO2, typical of the Ancestral Method.

Tasting: Though this is the entry-level sparkling cuvee from Anima Mundi, it stands its ground amongst their higher-end offerings, echoing some elements of a grower champagne (Penedés style). This is a lively, salty, clean, and mineral-driven pet-nat, full of precision and tension. Ideal for serving cold alongside fish or oysters.