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Enderle and Moll
Enderle & Moll, "Muschelkalk" 2018
Enderle & Moll, "Muschelkalk" 2018
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About the wine
One of their grand cru bottlings, this is as good as it gets - and boy is it good. Sharp, tense, energetic with red fruit and pine freshness moving into a mushroomy earthiness that acts as both garnish and texture before a finish that is long, pillowy, and bold in its ease. A wine of pure contradiction and brilliance.
Vinification: 100% Pinot Noir hand-harvested from 70+ year-old vines grown in solid limestone soils (one of the oldest parcels in all of Germany). The grapes are pressed in a small basket press after a 4-6 week maceration. 90-100% whole-cluster, spontaneous fermentation is kickstarted with only the help of native yeasts and completed in a large 1500L tank. The wine is then aged in used (1 year-old) barrels sourced from Domaine Dujac. Bottled unfined, unfiltered with minimal SO2.
Vinification: 100% Pinot Noir hand-harvested from 70+ year-old vines grown in solid limestone soils (one of the oldest parcels in all of Germany). The grapes are pressed in a small basket press after a 4-6 week maceration. 90-100% whole-cluster, spontaneous fermentation is kickstarted with only the help of native yeasts and completed in a large 1500L tank. The wine is then aged in used (1 year-old) barrels sourced from Domaine Dujac. Bottled unfined, unfiltered with minimal SO2.
The Producer: Enderle and Moll
The most southerly of Germany’s winemaking regions, Baden (often paired with its forested neighbor to the east, Württemberg) has in recent years become home to some of this northern European nation’s, and indeed the world’s, most exciting renditions of Pinot Noir. It is so often stated as to be nearly trite within wine circles to mention Germany as a potential “New Burgundy,” with seasonal temperatures rising at the behest of an ever-warming climate (the dread inherent in the success of lengthened grape-ripening here is clear). Paired with this new wiggle-room in its yearly ebb and flow of temperature, rainfall, and the like, Baden is home to one of our favorite producers, Enderle & Moll. Founded in 2007 by Sven Enderle and Florian Moll, after a world’s-worth of education and harvests spent abroad, their winery has trod out a new path in their home-region of Baden, one focused on pairing organic and biodynamic viticultural practices with some of the oldest vines of Pinot Noir in all of Germany. Given their pristine soils of both sandstone and limestone, here was the unlikely birthplace of Spatbürgunder’s new and rich life. Their expressions of Pinot have garnered such unexpected, widespread, and fervent praise that even Jancis Robinson has officially placed them in her “cult” category.
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