Enderle & Moll, "Muschelkalk" 2021

Baden, Germany. 100% Pinot Noir hand-harvested from 70+ year-old vines grown in solid limestone soils from one of the oldest parcels in all of Germany. The grapes are pressed in a small basket press after a 4-6 week maceration. Mostly whole-cluster and fermented only with wild yeasts. Aged in used barrels and bottled unfined, unfiltered with minimal SO2.

One of E&M's grand cru bottlings, this is as good as it gets - and boy is it good. Sharp, tense, energetic with red fruit and pine freshness moving into a mushroomy earthiness that acts as both garnish and texture before a finish that is long, pillowy, and bold in its ease. A wine of pure contradiction and brilliance.